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Americanization of the taco

by Dave Cathey Published: January 27, 2010

Glen W. Bell Jr. died Jan. 16 at age 86, leaving behind a food legacy that rivals any in American restaurant history.

Bell told the trade magazine Restaurant News in 2008, "I always smile when I hear people say that they never had a taco until Taco Bell came to town.”

While Oklahoma City native Rick Bayless has worked tirelessly to reverse the effect Bell had on Mexican cuisine, Bell’s version of the taco is worthy to stand on its own merits.

The ex-Marine couldn’t have foreseen what effect his decision to supplement his burger and hot dog drive-in in San Bernardino, Calif., would have on punch lines, Chihuahuas and the eating habits of early morning bar castaways.

In 1951, Bell’s drive-in competed with a litter of newfangled drive-ins in California’s Inland Empire, not far from one owned by Dick and Mac McDonald, founders of what became the McDonald’s food empire. Seeking something to set apart his drive-in from the competition, Bell was intrigued by the tacos peddled by local Hispanic entrepreneurs.

Crumbled ground beef with hot sauce, shredded lettuce and cheese was perfect. But locals prepared tacos on a soft corn tortilla then fried them lightly with the ingredients inside, a toothpick at the top holding it all together. Too slow.

New York restaurateur Juvenico Maldonado had just received his patent for a device that held tortillas in a U-shape while they were fried. A molded, prefried shell could be stuffed and sent along much more quickly. So, Bell hired a chicken-coop maker to engineer him a wire fryer.

Bell recalled the first taco, which he sold for 19 cents, in "Taco Titan: The Glen Bell Story” by Debra Lee Baldwin (Bookworld Services, 1999): "He was dressed in a suit, and as he bit into the taco, the juice ran down his sleeve and dripped on his tie. I thought, ‘Uh-oh, we’ve lost this one.’ But he came back, amazingly enough, and said, ‘That was good. Gimme another.’”

Burgers and dogs were out; tacos were in. Several partnerships later, Bell invested $4,000 in his first Taco Bell in Downey, Calif., in 1962.

I met Bell’s tacos in Chula Vista, Calif., about 1974. For me and other 6-year-olds from that era, McDonald’s was the standard-bearer for our attention with its clown mascot, Hamburglar and Mayor McCheese beckoning us into their playgrounds of the bizarre. Then came Burger King, pre-disturbing plastic-headed despot, and Jack-in-the-Box, whose plastic-headed chief executive was still merely a clown to whom you spoke in the drive-through.

Tacos made mascots and playgrounds seem like folly. Food Dude Blog

by Dave Cathey
Food Editor
The Oklahoman's food editor, Dave Cathey, keeps his eye on culinary arts and serves up news and reviews from Oklahoma’s booming food scene.
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