"I thought the ocean was blue, but it's gray," said Dolores Silva, 72, smiling as she adjusted a brown cloth hat she'd brought from home, the interior state of Apurimac.
As she speaks, Vergara and other photographers take instant portraits of cooing couples, soldiers on leave, fathers parading first-borns. Other vendors pick their way through the throngs selling candy apples, hot baked bread and plastic inflatable versions of SpongeBob SquarePants.
Children dig holes in the sand and bury each other up to their necks.
As the sunset spreads an orange glow over the Pacific, mothers rinse the sand and salt off their children at the fresh-water fountain fed by a spring that gives the beach its name.