Mexico City rich in history, cultural opportunities

By Michael Bratcher

Published: July 22, 2007

MEXICO CITY — I hoped my Spanish skills weren't too rusty.

It had been several years since I studied the foreign language, and now I found myself standing in customs at the Mexico City airport while awaiting my guide for a weekend tour of historic monuments and museums. Though this wasn't my first trip south of the border, it did mark the first time I'd be traveling there alone to write a travel feature.

Earlier this year, I found myself lounging on the beaches of Puerto Escondido, a small fishing community in southwestern Mexico, with a group of journalists. On this trip, though, I opted for something dramatically different: a visit to one of the world's largest and busiest cities, which welcomes nearly 9 million visitors each year. Forget the swim trunks, I thought. Let's take a step back in time and discover some of the history of our neighboring country.

And what a rich history it is, spanning several centuries and a number of cultures. Tour for free the Museum of Popular Cultures, which features an exhibition on biblical crosses and their importance to the Mexican people. Or visit Teotihuacan, an archaeological zone that is home to the third-largest pyramid in the world.

But in a metro of several million people, there's certainly much more to do than just study the past. Take in a show at the city's performing arts center or attend a Mass at one of the city's Catholic churches. Sample a taco from a street vendor. You'd be surprised at their price; I enjoyed two large tacos topped with fresh guacamole one morning for about $1.50.

Perhaps you're up for a little shopping? Visit the Coyoacan area, where you'll find locals selling homemade jewelry, clothes and other wares. The neighborhood, described as bohemian, is home to residents with an artistic flair, somewhat reminiscent of Oklahoma City's Paseo arts district.

"We're attracting more and more people from the countryside,” said Marylu Leonel, who owns a local tour guide service. "Twenty-five years ago, the area had about 15 million inhabitants. Today, that number is about 24 million, and that doesn't include the millions who visit each year for business or cultural tours.”

But to truly appreciate what the city offers, one must go back in time some five centuries. It was in 1521 when Spaniard Hernan Cortes conquered the area of Mexico then controlled by Aztec ruler Montezuma II and named it New Spain. That rule lasted just three centuries, when the Mexicans fought back and gained independence in 1821. The country was renamed Mexico.

According to Leonel, about 9 million indigenous people still live in the country, while the remainder are Mestizos, a blend of Indian and Spanish. More than 60 languages are spoken in the country, languages that were invented centuries before the Spanish invaded the area in the 1500s.

Learn more about the history of the nation's inhabitants by visiting the National Museum of Anthropology. (Admission is about $5, though it is free for residents Sundays, so arrive early that day to avoid lengthy lines.) The 23-room museum sits beside a 600-acre park similar to Central Park in New York City.

Visitors to the museum are greeted by a cascading water column feature displaying a Spanish warrior on one side and an Aztec Indian on the other. Tour guide San "Sammy” Emeterio said it could take two or three days to visit the entire museum, so multiday passes are sold. English translation is available.

Perhaps one of the most important pieces in the museum is a stone Aztec calendar, discovered on the side of the National Palace in the 1700s. The piece is estimated to weigh about 70 tons. But don't worry about the lack of art at the National Palace now that the calendar has been moved. Inside the palace, large murals fill the walls overlooking the court-yard, telling its own version of the nation's rich history.

For those interested in studying the importance of religion, a visit to the Basilica of Guadalupe is a must. Considered the central place of worship for Mexico's patron saint, the basilica is one of the most visited Catholic churches in the world, second only to St. Peter's Basilica in Rome.

Visitors come from around the world each Dec. 12 to celebrate the first appearance of the Virgin of Guadalupe. The original chapel opened in 1531, but because of size and structural concerns, a second chapel was constructed. It opened in 1976 and features the original portrait of the virgin.

A cultural visit to Mexico City isn't complete without a stop to the archaeological zone at Teotihuacan, home to the world's third-largest pyramid, the Pyramid of the Sun, and its counterpart, the Pyramid of the Moon. But be sure to wear comfortable shoes, particularly if you plan to take the trek to the top. The Pyramid of the Sun, completed in about the year 200, stands more than 200 feet tall — making it one of the largest structures built in the ancient Americas.

Though the lines to climb the pyramids were quite lengthy the day of my visit, rest assured that the next time I find myself in Mexico City, I will take the challenge. By then, too, I am certain I'll have hit the books to brush up on my Spanish.

Travel and accommodations provided by Mexico City tourism secretary.

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