When in Paris ...
Lesser-known sites also hold wonder
Lesser-known sites also hold wonder

By Jessica Blackstock,

Published: August 19, 2007

PARIS — Many Americans find Paris lovely, but her inhabitants a little less welcoming.

That is because Paris, despite being a booming metropolitan city, still moves at the same leisurely pace as the rest of France. It's French time, not American.

Therefore, the best way to really enjoy Paris is to (gasp!) act a little bit like a Parisian. Toss out the agenda, enjoy two-hour lunches and take time to smell the roses — literally. Beautiful ones can be found among Rodin's sculptures in his famous sculpture garden. Paris offers world-class museums and breathtaking views, but some of its greatest treats can easily be looked over if you move too fast.

Thanks to "Mona Lisa” and author Dan Brown, the Musee du Louvre remains a necessary stop on the itinerary. This massive museum can easily consume a large portion of a visitor's time. However, it is important to break out from the Louvre and stroll through the lovely Jardin des Tuileries to the opposite end of the gardens, which is the home of the Musee de l'Orangerie.

Only recently reopened, this delightful museum houses Monet's "Les Nympheas” (water lilies). These two circular rooms are covered with giant breathtaking paintings of what was perhaps his most famous subject. The basement of the museum houses works by Cezanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso and others. It, like many Paris museums, is open every day except Tuesday.

Hop from the right bank to the left to stop at the Musee D'Orsay. While the former railway station turned world-class museum is an obvious stop for anyone who enjoys Impressionism, it is also a remarkable building. Head to the upper levels of the museum to take in the view from the open-air terrace and admire the outside views of the giant clock looking towards Sacre Coeur.

From the Musee D'Orsay, it is a nice stroll to the Musee Rodin. The museum houses hundreds of sculptures by Auguste Rodin, but the secluded sculpture garden is particularly delightful. One euro grants access into a beautiful garden full of Rodin's works, including "The Thinker.” There is also a lovely cafe, which makes this a perfect place for an afternoon retreat from the city.

Paris' two islands, Ile de la Cite and Ile St-Louis, are each home to incredibly important sites. Ile de la Cite has Notre Dame but Ile St-Louis has Berthillon, the best ice cream in Paris and quite arguably the best ice cream, period.

The line for Berthillon is spotted before the store. The line moves quickly, and the 70-plus flavors listed outside the little store offer plenty to ponder. All are great, but the miel au nougat (honey nougat) is wonderful.

Grab some ice cream then stroll around tiny Ile St-Louis and enjoy its small village feel with quaint shops and tiny cafes. Cross over the Pont St Louis to more bustling life on Ile de la Cite for a lovely view of Notre Dame.

Head on to the other end of the island to Saint Chapelle, the tiny but breathtaking 13th century chapel. Go on a sunny day and let your jaw drop as you admire the floor-to-ceiling stained glass. This is the church in the movie "The Da Vinci Code”.

From the wonders of natural light to man-made light, the Eiffel Tower is indisputably the mascot of Paris. While Parisians still profess a love-hate relationship with the "300-meter flagpole,” as Gustave Eiffel once described his creation, this mascot is a feat in both design and engineering. The tower is best at sunset and nighttime when it is all aglow.

Away from the hustle and bustle of the city's main attractions sits the calm and surprisingly inviting Cimitere Pere Lachaise. Yes, it's hard to imagine a cemetery conjuring such a description, but its grand winding walkways and many park benches provide a lovely afternoon retreat.

It is the resting place for Marcel Proust, Gertrude Stein, Oscar Wilde and other fascinating inhabitants. However, it is the simple tomb of the cemetery's most-visited inhabitant, singer Jim Morrison, which makes this an important stop for many visitors. Pick up a cemetery map from any of the newsstands outside the grounds or simply follow the throngs of teenage hipsters to Morrison's grave.

The white meringue that is the Basilique du Sacre Coeur stands out among the otherwise gray rooftops of the Paris skyline. Sacre Coeur and Montmartre remain a delightful and beautiful stop despite the throng of visitors to this part of Paris.

The best way to ascend Montmartre is by taking the Metro to Abbesses and winding your way up to the basilica. The Abbesses stop is famous for green noodle-like metalwork by French art nouveau architect Hector Guimard.

The Metro stop is just the first of many photo-worthy moments on the climb to the top. The stroll provides plenty of charming cafes and lovely homes perched on the hillside. The basilica is as wonderful up close as it is from far away and provides one of the best views of the city. Take time to walk around Place du Tertre, also referred to as Artist's Square, skip the high prices at the touristy cafes but take some time to admire the work of the amateur artists who continue to keep this area true to its origins.

Parisians may be challenging, but getting around Paris is not. Most of these sites are within walking distance of each other, and those that aren't are easily serviced by the city's easy to use Metro system. Plus, some of Paris' most interesting sites are underneath your feet. Many of Paris' Metro stations have unusual designs and themes.

Above ground or under it, Paris really is a city of beauty. Just make sure you take the time to see it.

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