Tips offered for leash training

A dog that pulls on the leash can spoil more than a nice walk, and Emily Pelecanos of Silver Spring, Md., has the photos from her 50th birthday party to prove it.

Her husband had ordered a limo to take them downtown to a fancy restaurant — but of course, first the dogs needed to be walked. While she chatted with a neighbor, her dog, Buster, saw a dog that she didn’t see coming — and he lunged for it.

"I hit the pavement with my hands and my face,” she recalls.

Determined not to cancel the party, Pelecanos iced the emerging bruises. "Then I put makeup on and big sunglasses,” she says, "but you should have seen everyone in the restaurant whispering.”

A dog that’s difficult to walk gets walked less, so it doesn’t get enough exercise and socialization. Then it becomes more difficult to walk.

There are harnesses and halters that are designed to solve the leash-pulling problem. (Don’t confuse these with regular harnesses, which actually make pulling easier: There’s a reason that dogs are attached to a sled with a harness instead of by their collars.)

But even if a no-pull harness helps, it’s best not to rely on it as a permanent solution, if for no other reason than that it may not last. For Buster, a front-attaching-style harness worked — until he grew bigger and more accustomed to it.

So, trainers recommend that you view these products as a tool that allows you to give your dog enough exercise and exposure to new situations that he’ll be able to concentrate on training.

To start training your dog not to pull, first, recognize that lunging in reaction to something exciting, like Buster did, and constantly walking at the end of a taut leash are different problems.

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