Americanization of the taco

Bell told the trade magazine Restaurant News in 2008, "I always smile when I hear people say that they never had a taco until Taco Bell came to town.”

While Oklahoma City native Rick Bayless has worked tirelessly to reverse the effect Bell had on Mexican cuisine, Bell’s version of the taco is worthy to stand on its own merits.

The ex-Marine couldn’t have foreseen what effect his decision to supplement his burger and hot dog drive-in in San Bernardino, Calif., would have on punch lines, Chihuahuas and the eating habits of early morning bar castaways.

In 1951, Bell’s drive-in competed with a litter of newfangled drive-ins in California’s Inland Empire, not far from one owned by Dick and Mac McDonald, founders of what became the McDonald’s food empire. Seeking something to set apart his drive-in from the competition, Bell was intrigued by the tacos peddled by local Hispanic entrepreneurs.

Crumbled ground beef with hot sauce, shredded lettuce and cheese was perfect. But locals prepared tacos on a soft corn tortilla then fried them lightly with the ingredients inside, a toothpick at the top holding it all together. Too slow.

New York restaurateur Juvenico Maldonado had just received his patent for a device that held tortillas in a U-shape while they were fried. A molded, prefried shell could be stuffed and sent along much more quickly. So, Bell hired a chicken-coop maker to engineer him a wire fryer.

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