PARIS — Christian Dior revamped the 1950s New Look for its 2012 spring-summer haute couture collection, with stand-in designer Bill Gaytten playing it safe, with success, following last season's panning.
Monday's show got started fashionably late — but Dior is tardy in more ways than one. The front row was abuzz over Dior's ongoing silence on the appointment of a new creative director.
Would it be Raf Simons, artistic director of Jil Sander? Or perhaps French designer Haden Ackerman?
But the fashionistas were quickly jolted back into focus as floaty silk crepe silhouettes with nipped waists — in shades of beige, aubergine, red, black and white — filed through the sumptuous salons of the couturier on the Avenue Montaigne.
Gaytten had clearly hit on the house's signature pieces from its 1950s heyday, in a back-to-basics move following the fall-winter couture flop. Despite its predictability, this collection somehow worked, perhaps by dint of its subtlety and textural detail.
A classic A-line bar suit was given a light touch in ultrafeminine sheer silk with a full skirt, giving the show an ethereal, otherworldly feel.