The Metro Wine Bar and Bistro is only open for Sunday brunch twice a year: Easter and Mother's Day.
Since Peter Cottontail has hippity hopped back into his hole for 2012, it's up to Mom to experience the Metro for brunch.
Of course, the Metro only holds about 88 people at a time, so it might be that you'll have to wait until next Easter for your chance at the special eggs Benedict-based menu.
But that certainly doesn't stop you from visiting this comfort-driven American bistro, which has been around almost a quarter-century, for dinner any night of the week — including Sunday — or lunch Monday through Saturday.
Two years after opening The Coach House, Chris Lower had another big decision to make. Cappuccino's had just ended a decade-long run and left space available to create competition for his hot new fine dining spot. With help from new chef Kurt Fleischfresser, Lower opted to lease the space and open a French-style bistro.
“We thought rather than face competition, we could open a place that would complement The Coach House,” Lower said. “In the beginning we were a true French bistro.”
That means dishes like frog leg salad and mussels in vinaigrette on a menu that kept up with the seasons as best as could be done in the late 1980s.
From the beginning, Lower will tell you the driving force behind the Metro is his wife, LaVeryl, who has managed and done primary wine purchasing since it opened 24 years ago this December.
And a place doesn't survive that long without drive and learning to adapt.
“The chefs started feeling a little hemmed in by the French menu,” LaVeryl said.
“That's when we switched to an American bistro,” Chris added.
That means an infusion of Southwest, Mediterranean and Asian influences so you'll find lamb pot-stickers, pepper-seared ahi tuna, and chicken pasta that includes peanuts and sesame-ginger vinaigrette on the same menu as vichyssoise, sautéed veal liver and onions, and steak frites
Executive chef Rolyn Soberanis carries on a tradition of great chefs who have helped develop the Metro into what it is today. From Ken Bradford to the late Chip Sears and Chad Willis who served seven years before turning over the reins to Soberanis, the menu has always stayed close to the cutting edge.
But since day one, The Metro has made its reputation on its wine list. Impressive wine lists across the city owe a debt of gratitude to The Metro, which was among the local industry's leaders in bringing boutique wines from around the world into the market.
Stepping into The Metro is like stepping into a French country cottage only to find a stunning selection of wine and a menu as pristine, sophisticated and well-appointed as the room in which it's served.
Dining rooms haven't changed too much through the years, nor has the level of service, which is second to none. The Lowers worked very hard to develop The Metro's reputation and have spent the better part of two decades maintaining it. They understand that poor service can undo those many years of hard work within a terrifically short time.
The result is a tight-knit staff that dines together each Thanksgiving and welcomes guests with enough knowledge and hospitality to forge trust that's rarely achieved in local restaurants.
Whether it's for The Metro's special Mother's Day brunch, one of its many special wine dinners, catering or just a glass of wine and garlic-roasted pommes frites, don't be afraid to set your standards high. The Lowers and the staff at The Metro wouldn't have it any other way.