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The Wedge sets the standard for local pizza

The Food Dude visits The Wedge Pizzeria, where everything is made from scratch.
by Dave Cathey Published: November 19, 2012

Six years ago, the eat-local movement known as locavore was in its infancy, ingredient-driven kitchens were sparse and operated in near anonymity.

Six years ago, The Wedge Pizzeria, 4601 N Western, opened with the intention of celebrating artisan-style crust topped with local and/or organic ingredients in a market not noted for embracing pizza that didn't come in all-you-can-eat.

Six years later, the eat-local rallying cry resounds from sea to shining sea, The Wedge Pizzeria has added a location at 230 NE 1 St., and the restaurant is generally considered a standard-bearer for quality pizza in Oklahoma City.

The focus has always been and still is rustic Italian, general manager Elena Farrar said. The centerpiece of the kitchen is a brick oven that continues to stand as the primary cooking source for the entire menu. The menu is simple: five appetizers, five salads, six specialty pizzas, gelato for dessert, a great beer and wine list and cool specials always on the horizon.

The Antipasto platter is a popular choice, but I love the Prosciutto-Wrapped Pears. I would order the Handmade Meatball more often, but that would probably cost me at least one slice of pizza, which I just can't afford to miss.

The pizza I choose first is the Prosciutto E Formaggi (prosciutto, fig, arugula, mozzarella and Parmesan), followed closely by the Truffle Shuffle (sage, crimini mushrooms, spinach, roasted and hand-pulled chicken, Parmesan and mozzarella with a splash of truffle oil).

In the last year, they've added take-away breakfast at the Western Avenue location. Jeff Longstreth, who's been with The Wedge since day one, oversees the Monday through Friday service.

“We wanted to offer something quick, inexpensive and healthy people could pick and take with them for breakfast.”

The result is a service starting at 7 a.m. offering various breakfast burritos with and without meat, fresh-squeezed juice, Elemental coffee and, lately, gourmet toasts.

When it comes to ordering pizza, I do have my preferences but I also trust Elena and Jeff. On my last visit, Jeff recommended a special he'd come up with that included bacon, red onions and the aforementioned roasted chicken and the result was a home run. If they say it's good, it is. They've spent the last six years in a deep and committed relationship with the brick-oven pizza and all the lucky ingredients that have marched in and out of it.

The Wedge isn't the kind of place to sit down and spread out your preconceived notions about pizza. The Wedge is a place to try new combinations, embrace local flavor and submit to the wisdom of its gatekeepers. But neither Elena, Jeff nor any of the rest of the staff is going to turn their nose up at serving a pepperoni pizza. The atmosphere is light and breezy with a 100 percent chance of hospitality.

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by Dave Cathey
Food Editor
The Oklahoman's food editor, Dave Cathey, keeps his eye on culinary arts and serves up news and reviews from Oklahoma’s booming food scene.
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