MILAN — The Gucci woman next winter is a playful mixture of demure and daring.
"She seduces with her dangerous femininity," writes creative director Frida Giannini in her show notes for the collection presented Wednesday, the first day of Milan Fashion Week for fall-winter 2013-2014.
For example, while the season's pencil skirt has a proper several-inches-below-the-knee hemline, the slits up the front and back are not necessarily ladylike.
Or take the little black dress, a cocktail-hour must — until Giannini ups the ante with fetching see-through lace, leather inserts and low-cut backs and necklines.
In the constructed collection, jackets are generally small, with either a soft or well-defined shoulder. Coats are cut close to the body, except for a single mannish coat in cornflower blue with a black Astrakhan collar. Skirts are worn high for a delicate take on the waist, and the tapered and short pants are more sweet than sexy.
However, the recurrent fishnet tights complete with black seam underlined the fetching mood of the collection.
There were hints of feathers and spangles in the daytime wear, but these burst out in firework proportions for the evening. More than one dress was made up of a combination of feathers, sequins, lace and leather, fashioned in a revealing silhouette.