NEW YORK (AP) — The beauty of an Oscar de la Renta design is its luxuriousness. In the new fall styles he offered Wednesday at New York Fashion Week, de la Renta stayed true to his principles and didn’t offer a “recession collection,” or anything that could be called a “de la Renta lite.”
Fur (and lots of it) set the tone, and during the 15-minute show de la Renta did what he could to reassure fashion-followers that everything would be all right as long as they looked good.
The best of the bunch were a contemporary gray broadtail vest and a regal hooded feathered sable coat. Surely, though, the skunk scarf and mittens worn by the first model on the runway — in an otherwise sleek and chic black wool dress — raised a few eyebrows.
His signature beading and embroideries were sparser than usual, but, with his socialite customers dutifully filling the former church on Park Avenue he uses to stage runway shows, that seemed a commentary on emerging trends, not trying times.
The ballgown that would be his contribution to the fierce, aggressive look that has dominated the scores of this week’s previews was black, strapless and splattered with edgy shine, but the elaborate — and pouffy — gown would only be appropriate for the fanciest occasion. The same goes with another black Grande-dame gown that was covered with a tulle and velvet embroidered coat.
Other gowns had a slimmer silhouette, so narrow, in fact, that the models had to slow down their strut because they had to take smaller steps, but that just allowed a little more time to appreciate a leopard-print one-shoulder gown in silk chiffon.
Animal prints were used for daywear, too, looking refreshed on a quilted jacket and vest.