Fashion Week: Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen, Luca Luca and more
New York Fashion Week for fall 2010 continues through Thursday. Here are more reviews.
For a while, it seemed Carolina Herrera was trying to court a more hipster customer but she showed Monday that she is firmly committed to the rarified world in which she lives and works.
There was luxury like a Prussian-blue, mosaic-print jacket with fur lining and a mink collar, worn with camel-colored suede pants, and a sky-and-steel blue gown with beaded leaves and a swath of tulle around the neck.
There was a hint of a Russian influence to the overall look of the show, in her color choices, fur and style of embroidery. The daywear models also wore full-brim hats.
The Herrera lady — “woman” doesn’t sound quite right — is a day-and-night dresser, not a day-to-night one. Look for her in a deep red wool sheath with asymmetrical vertical pleats for day, and a distinctly different black-and-metallic embossed organza gown with a hint of red framing the face in the evening.
It’s the real world and now Zac Posen is living in it. The first model on his runway Monday morning wore a fully wearable, thoroughly sophisticated, portrait-neck cape in camel-colored felt, smart trousers and a creamy silk blouse.
In fact, the former flashy showman, who has recently chronicled in the press his struggles to lead a viable business, turned out a mostly understated, chic collection. It might not be full of head-turners, but the clothes aren’t as polarizing as, say, his tornado-inspired gowns a few seasons ago.
As wild as it got here were some copper metallics, pink-dot prints and magenta-colored fur — a refreshing break from the largely neutral palette that has been dominating this round of previews for stylists, editors and retailers.
Posen partnered with violinist Miri Ben-Ari to provide a live, serene soundtrack. He also seemed to stick to a recent commitment to seek out older models — by industry standards that means 18, maybe 16 — to avoid those who are too thin. And he seemed to stick by it, hiring veterans Alek Wek, Hana Soukupova, Sessilee Lopez and Coco Rocha.
Rachel Roy’s outfits that demanded the most attention featured slightly tarnished metallics, including a gold, crochet-style dress and jacket, a black sheath decorated with gold, almost-serpentine beads, and a high-shine patchwork gold skirt worn with a gold-lace tank.
But daywear is the base of her collection that has steadily gained a following in recent seasons, spawning a secondary, more affordable line with Macy’s.
Stylish professional clothes included an open, pleated cashmere cardigan and cropped trousers (and a sheer jersey bodysuit for extra attention), a slouchy brick-red, wrap coat, and a delicate black lace blouse with high-waisted navy wool trousers. You’d need a blazer — of which there were several — on top of that last outfit for the office.
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