New York fall 2013 fashion shows
By Samantha Critchell/Associated Press
NEW YORK (AP) — New York Fashion Week is fading to black.
Fall previews wrap up Thursday night, with the rescheduled Marc Jacobs show, but there’s been a steady parade of dark clothes straight on through to Wednesday, Day 7.
Black is basic, right? Black also is the color most likely to be worn by the front row of editors, retailers and stylists filling the Lincoln Center tents and venues around the city.
For the past few seasons, however, the insiders had been buzzing about brights. It was a trend that easily translated to a variety of consumers and price points.
It seemed just about everyone tried the colored-denim look over the past year — and that’s exactly what makes black, and the other wearable, classic styles dominating Fashion Week, feel new, said Brandon Holley, editor-in-chief of Lucky magazine.
“It’s going to be a good season to shop for things you’ll keep a long time,” he said.
Narciso Rodriguez said he favors a black season, though you can’t do every season in all black (he’s come close sometimes) and it really doesn’t work for an entire collection. But it’s the quickest route to chic.
Rodriguez often sets off black with white for a graphic effect.
“I love working with black, and I open and close this collection with it, but in the middle I added a color statement,” he said. “I like color as long as you can do clear, modern color.”
He dotted his catwalk with shades of orange and pink.
Michael Kors went heavy on the black, in fur camouflage coats and mixed with safety orange and bright blue in dresses and other pieces. Rachel Zoe put on a parade of black, in a set of shaggy sleeves and a leather skirt, along with looks in white, gray and navy.
Numerous other designers also went to black, also pairing it with navy.
Jacobs gets the last word Thursday night, before the fashion crowd moves to London, then Milan and Paris.
MARCHESA
Equestrian portraits from the 17th century helped inspire a new season of red-carpet artistry by designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig.
In particular, a painting by Francisco de Goya called “Portrait of Maria Teresa de Vallabriga on Horseback.”
“Highlighting Goya’s influential style of dark shaded color applied in layers, the techniques used to craft this collection are derived from the same grandeur of exquisite detail and romance,” the designers said in their notes.
But Chapman also fancied a red equestrian jacket, and Craig was ready to step up the already elaborate threadwork.
Unlike some designers who are quite literal in their interpretations, Marchesa aims for artistry. That “jacket” ended up as a satin coat with an embroidered high collar and floral embroidery.
They must have scores of yards of tulle to create an illusion effect to envelope entire gowns and for sheer shirts that were worn with corset-style dresses.
NANETTE LEPORE
Stars aligned for Lepore in a collection with a cosmic theme.
She said she found herself intrigued by the surfaces and textures beamed back from Mars by the Exploration rover over the past few months. She was drawn to prints that looked like manipulated images of Earth’s land and water from far away.
Lepore worried it would come off as too close to camouflage.
“I always panic about things that can go wrong, but then I try to think about what’s right about the collection,” she said.
So what went right? “I love the coats. Take the black coat and a hologram handbag, and you’re good to go,” she said.
A starburst-e
mbellished T-shirt with brushed deep-olive pants, and a violet-colored asymmetric peacoat with an iridescent striped sweater deserved some kudos, too.
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