But the big ticket is the Ceviche de Mixto, which is almost as beautiful to behold as it is delicious to eat. Fish, shrimp, mussels and calamari are sent to heaven in a bath of aji amarillo, rocoto pepper and lime juice with wafer-thin red onions, ultra-crispy choclos, which are corn nuts the way they were intended, hominy and a chilled hunk of sweet potato for balancing texture and flavor. If you like ceviche, you'll love this. If you hate ceviche, you'll like this. If you've never tried ceviche, start here so you know what it's supposed to taste like.

Ceviches are cooked only with the acid of citrus juice. Most read that as raw. Well, read it however you like, but if you take the time to taste it, your palate will thank you and so will your waistline. And those two hate each other.

For those terminally skittish about safety and time-proven worth of ceviche, Castro and Carranza have plenty of traditionally cooked fish, fowl and beef. Their Peruvian style paella is called Arroz con Mariscos. Parhihuela is a traditional fish stew. The Jalea Mixta is a batter-fried version of the Ceviche Mixto.

Lomito Saltado illustrates the Chinese influence on Peruvian cuisine in this stir-fry of beef, onions and tomatoes with steamed rice. Aji de Gallina is another Peruvian classic, consisting of chicken under a blanket of aji amarillo sauce.

Notables from the appetizer menu include Anticuchos, which will improve whatever position you currently hold on the subject of eating beef heart; Papa a la Huancaina, a simple group of boiled, chilled potatoes dressed in that magic aji amarillo sauce; and Papa Rellena, a mashed potato rolled out, filled with beef, rolled back into a ball and batter-fried.

Ceviche House serves Peruvian-style tamales, meaning the chicken-stuffed masa is wrapped in banana leaves rather than corn husks. Its partner in flavor is Salsa Criolla, the thin-sliced red onion mixture.

Ceviche House is open daily for lunch and dinner, for more information call 470-0998