SAVANNAH, Ga. (AP) — In "Gone With the Wind," Scarlett O'Hara, comparing Savannah and Charleston to the much younger city of Atlanta, called the older locales "aged grandmothers fanning themselves placidly in the sun." Today the two waterfront cities are among the South's most popular tourist destinations, attracting millions of visitors annually with their history, restaurants and streetscapes.
Savannah, the oldest city in Georgia, was established in 1733, and Charleston, the oldest city in South Carolina, was founded in 1670. They're located about 100 miles (160 kilometers) apart, so it's easy to visit both on one trip.
Savannah is a walkable city, from the waterfront on the Savannah River to the spacious downtown and historic district. Its streets are made from cobblestone and tabby (ground oyster shells, lime, and sand, mixed with salt water), and it's known for a series of picturesque, park-like squares, lined with live oak trees dripping with Spanish moss.
The 22 squares include Oglethorpe Square, named for the founder of Georgia, James Oglethorpe, who laid out the city plan for the squares; Pulaski Square, for the Polish general of the Revolutionary War; and Lafayette, for the Marquis de Lafayette, French hero of the American Revolutionary War. Telfair Square, named for a prominent family whose roots stretched back to Colonial times, is home to two of the city's most important museums: the Telfair Academy, an 1819 mansion that became a museum in the 1880s, and the contemporary Jepson Center, designed by the noted architect Moshe Safdie.
Chippewa Square honors American soldiers killed in the Battle of Chippawa (different spelling) in the War of 1812. The park bench scene in the movie "Forrest Gump" was filmed in Chippewa Square, though the bench was a fiberglass prop.
The Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), which has made the city its home since 1979, has restored or renovated dozens of old buildings around the city, many of which are now used as dorms and classrooms. Some student housing adjoins the squares; you can tell by all the bicycles parked in front.
Elsewhere, River Street has its share of stores, tourist gift shops, bars and restaurants. Y'all should try the shrimp and grits and local fish, like the amberjack, a yellowtail.
At City Market is a statue of favorite son Johnny Mercer, songwriter of "Moon River," ''Days of Wine and Roses" and "In the Cool, Cool, Cool of the Evening," among many others, who was born in Savannah. You can also tour the family home, now the Mercer Williams House Museum. Its later occupants included Jim Williams, whose trial for murder was the focus of John Berendt's 1994 book, "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil."
Mercer and Savannah-born poet Conrad Aiken are buried in Bonaventure Cemetery, about 5 miles (8 kilometers) outside of town in a beautiful setting alongside the Wilmington River. The cemetery, known for its spooky but romantic statues, memorials and more of those live oaks draping gravesites with Spanish moss, was also featured in "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil." The book's famous cover image showed the cemetery's hauntingly lovely "Bird Girl" statue, resulting in so much attention that "Bird Girl" was moved to the Telfair Academy.
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