MILAN — Giorgio Armani mixes geographies and eras in a complex Emporio Armani collection that proposes something of a revolution: fashion with dignity.
In the Emporio collection previewed Sunday, the fifth day of Milan Fashion Week shows, a bowler hat with a playful rounded rim sets a yesteryear tone, immediately contradicted by oversized Jaipur-style earrings as Armani travels time and the world in a glance.
The collection centered on a decidedly feminine silhouette. Short organza dresses were worn under wispy overcoats. Voluminous organza tops are belted over wide miniskirts. And long structural skirts are paired with warming mohair pullovers with three-quarter length sleeves, or fetching mohair sleeveless dresses with cropped pants. For Armani this round, mohair expresses fur. Double-breasted jackets were rounded at the hem for a ladylike look, and worn with organza skirts or trousers.
Colors also defined the collection's feminine mood. Armani chose icy shades of green, pink, purple, in contrast with the urban grays and blacks that are defining Milan runways this season. Even his darker colors were less somber, a royal purple, deep brown and regal olive green.