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Geometry's basic line gets fresh exposure in Milan

Published on NewsOK Modified: June 23, 2014 at 10:25 pm •  Published: June 23, 2014
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MILAN (AP) — The line, long under-rated as one of geometry's most basic form, is getting a lot of exposure on the Milan menswear runway.

Designers are embracing stripes of, well, every stripe, and using them as a metaphor of sorts to clean up the line, that is the silhouettes, of the collections presented during Milan Fashion Week, in its third day on Monday.

So for next summer, men can expect to be wearing stripes, both fine and bold, along with pulsating, radiating and curving lines, as well as simple checks, all creating optical effects that bely the cleanness of some of the designs. Lines are also being worked into the fabric, in chunky textiles that create an architecture of their own.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Giorgio Armani says he has done a whole sale cleanup of looks for his Emporio Armani collection for next spring and summer.

The predominantly black-and-white collection has a strong graphic component, with lines transmitting a sense of energy from the garment, from steady pulses, webs and waves up to full black and white bold stripes. Color makes cameos in contrasting stripes of turquoise and aqua-green.

"After years of doing a little bit of everything, a melange, florals and ethnicity, finally a little cleaning," Armani said.

The silhouette is loose and easy, with pleated trousers or drawstring athletic pants. Silk and cotton shirts loosely cling the frame, and T-shirts, worn under coats, are soft.

FRESH DIRECTION AT CANALI

The 80-year-old family-run Canali fashion house is taking a fresh direction with a new capsule collection by young Milan designer Andrea Pompilio.

Since being tapped to show his brand at Giorgio Armani's theater one year ago, the up-and-comer with 20-years' experience in fashion, including a stint at Prada, has been fully embraced by the fashion world.

Pompilio said both his own brand, which showed Saturday, and the Canali label depart from the same place: "I am completely obsessed with menswear and especially iconic pieces of the wardrobe."

For Canali, Pompilio tinkered a bit with the proportions of the look, cropping the trousers, making cuffs a bit deeper, the jackets a bit shorter. The looks also feature flashes of color, like orange, yellow and peacock looks, and pairs formal elements, like a double-breasted suit, with sneakers.

He also includes patterns on silky short and checked suits, finishing the looks with eyewear instead of sunglasses and full-brimmed summer hats.

"You see a lot of fresh inputs for the brand, but actually the DNA is exactly the same," he said backstage.

GUCCI EARNS ITS STRIPES

The Gucci man for next summer has earned his stripes, along with golden buttons, epaulets, insignias and other trappings of a mariner's life.

The collection, shown against a background of shimmering water, has a decidedly nautical flair, featuring trim and dignified white, navy and red suits with suggestions of officiality in stripes. But these are not mere costumes. The collection projects both luxury and a free-spirit.

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