HillBilly Po'Boys in Oklahoma City aims to make you holler 'yee-haw'

HillBilly Po'Boys, the newest concept from S&B's Burger Joint founders Shannon Roper and Bryan Neel, brings backwoods flavor to the forefront in Oklahoma City.
by Dave Cathey Published: July 31, 2013

For appetizers, HillBilly's features alligator ribs, corned beef egg rolls and, my personal favorite, skewers of grilled shrimp and shishito peppers. Roper also has been putting the finishing touches on hillbilly nachos, which consist of fried mushrooms on a homemade potato chip topped with Parmesan cheese.

Fresh oysters will become an even stronger presence on the menu in the near future. Roper said they recently finalized arrangements to ensure the restaurant has quality oysters year-round.

Po'boy education

S&B's has grown into five locations in short order with an eye toward destinations outside Oklahoma City, but don't expect a similar meteoric rise for HillBilly's.

“There's a little bit of education that needs to happen first,” Neel said. “Not everyone even knows what a po'boy is in Oklahoma.”

Po'boys, also known as oyster rolls, are simply sub sandwiches made popular in New Orleans, where seafood is king and flavors are bold. But Roper and Neel aren't trying to claim any Louisiana lineage.

“We aren't Cajun or Creole,” Neel said. “But we've got plenty of Oklahoma hillbilly in us.”

That said, HillBilly's dessert centers around another New Orleans classic, bread pudding. Roper's version is made with Apple Pie Moonshine and is rich enough to draw a crowd of tent-toting 99-percenters.

HillBilly's joins cool and kitschy Oklahoma City original concepts including The Mule, S&B's, Big Truck Tacos and Mutt's Amazing Hot Dogs along with brand-new entries The Drum Room and Back Door Barbecue to bolster the market's middle class.

If you go

HillBilly Po'Boys and Oysters opens at 11 a.m. daily. It closes at 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, midnight Friday and Saturday and 8 p.m. Sundays. This Sunday, HillBilly's introduces brunch service from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and, like S&B's, will offer bloody Marys — but with moonshine.

For more information, call 702-9805.

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by Dave Cathey
Food Editor
The Oklahoman's food editor, Dave Cathey, keeps his eye on culinary arts and serves up news and reviews from Oklahoma’s booming food scene.
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