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HillBilly Po'Boys in Oklahoma City aims to make you holler 'yee-haw'

HillBilly Po'Boys, the newest concept from S&B's Burger Joint founders Shannon Roper and Bryan Neel, brings backwoods flavor to the forefront in Oklahoma City.
by Dave Cathey Published: July 31, 2013

Turns out five restaurants with an eye beyond the metro isn't enough of a challenge for Shannon Roper and Bryan Neel, the S and B behind S&B's Burger Joint.

The dynamic duo of Oklahoma City's diningscape recently opened HillBilly Po'Boys and Oysters, 1 NW 9 St., in the space previously occupied by Pachinko Parlor.

“Shannon spent four years researching recipes and techniques,” Neel said. “That's how he is when he gets a new idea.”

Roper, who is rarely wont to attract attention to himself, said he's happy with the direction of the new concept.

“Po'boys are great, and we didn't see where anyone was doing them right around here,” Roper said. “We pretty much saw a niche and went for it.”

And they've gone for it just as they did burgers back in 2009, creating a great foundation dish then putting a twist on it by borrowing flavors from assorted food cultures.

HillBilly's also has jumped on board with the ongoing rise of moonshine as the spirit du jour.

“All our cocktails are moonshine-based,” Neel said. “If you order a gin and tonic, you're going to get a moonshine and tonic.”

The spot adjacent to ShopGood was an easy retrofit to look like a shack where you wouldn't be surprised to see a banjo savant with questionable bloodlines looking for a duel, but it's the food Roper and Neel serve that'll go all “Foggy Mountain Breakdown” on your palate.

The bread is made daily with a custom dough from La Baguette Bakery in Norman.

“We wanted a softer center, so we stretch the dough a little differently than their standard baguette,” Neel said.

Those baguettes come bearing fried or grilled shrimp; fried oysters; blackened crawfish; drip beef with warm leek and shallot relish; roast beef with debris gravy; chicken and mushrooms with gravy; fish cake with sweet chili sauce; meatballs with pancetta and marinara; grilled and roasted vegetables with hummus; curried egg salad; and a tricked-out muffuletta called the Mack-Daddy Muff.

They're delicious, but will require a fork and knife unless you're interested in wearing a little home. If you're looking for a more refined way into that goodness, you can order the filling over rice.

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by Dave Cathey
Food Editor
The Oklahoman's food editor, Dave Cathey, keeps his eye on culinary arts and serves up news and reviews from Oklahoma’s booming food scene.
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