Sleeping: In the tidy residential neighborhood near Neustadt train station, Hotel Bayerischer Hof Dresden offers elegant public spaces in a grand old building (splurge, www.bayerischer-hof-dresden.de). Hotel Martha Hospiz has a glassed-in winter garden and an outdoor breakfast terrace (moderate, www.hotel-martha-hospiz.de).
Eating: Murals, cheesy music and a lively crowd add to the fun at Altmarkt Keller, a festive beer cellar in the Old Town (Altmarkt 4). Dresden 1900, a streetcar-themed eatery, can't be beat for a good lunch (An der Frauenkirche 20).
Getting around: Dresden's network of trams and buses is slick. Berlin is two and a quarter hours away by train (every two hours).