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Louis V, Miu Miu and Elie Saab give grand finale

Associated Press Modified: October 3, 2012 at 2:31 pm •  Published: October 3, 2012
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Instead, one recurrent feature was, so say the program notes, "the smallest sequins ever produced."

Thousands of microscopic sequins brought a dazzling metallic shimmer to dresses and skirt suits, though when it was used on the blocked Damier pattern it was slightly too much.

"It's all about being graphic. (Buren's escalators) are a mathematical equation," Jacobs told journalists after the show.

Another math equation will come from the buoyant receipts from this, a highly saleable collection.

It's a fair bet that by next year this bold check will be everywhere.

MIU MIU

Miu Miu's spring-summer 2013 show in Paris had a wintery vibe.

Despite the slightly off-kilter season it was a slick display, with lashings of faux fur on coats and stoles with dyed patterning at the brand often seen as Miuccia Prada's baby sister offshoot.

It picked up nicely on this season's fascination with prints as contrasting explosions on loose skirt suits — sometimes resembling the negative of a photograph.

As ever, it remained demure, but interesting back features graced a few reversed boxy tops. Alongside looks in denim and the prints, it gave the clothes a distinctly cool edge which reached its peak in a few eclectic, asymmetrical pieces.

Only a master like Prada can make a tiny strapped cropped camisole work underneath a thick fur coat, accessorized with leather gloves and jeweled Roman sandals.

Uber-cool actress — and Miu Miu spokesperson — Chloe Sevigny watched from the front row.

ELIE SAAB

Elie Saab, master of the va-va-voom silhouette, broke out of his strict mold for his spring-summer 2013 show in Paris.

The Lebanese designer must have been feeling in an adventurous mood: He dabbled in graphic details and floral prints in Wednesday's show.

But never fear, his bread-and-butter traffic stopping dresses and sequins were still there — in cerulean blue and vermilion. After all, it's what his buyers and celebrity wearers such as singer Taylor Swift on the front row expect and love.

But the palette this season was updated to include a beautiful cobalt, which in turn exploded into fluorescent color prints on gowns, some full length, others above the knee, that fluttered by in silk muslin.

Saab included the odd peplum and some '90s looks with black-and-white geometric lines.

The catwalk set of graphic angular moon rocks signaled to fashion insiders even before the show started that Saab would move in this direction.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http:/ /Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP