NEW YORK — A blizzard named Nemo and delays at customs may have delayed Marc Jacobs' fall presentation and pushed up by one day the runway show for his secondary line, but he didn't need any more time or fuss for Marc by Marc Jacobs.
The younger, trendier line previewed its fall collection Monday night at New York Fashion Week in a polished and quiet throwback to the 1960s. Jacobs stuck mostly with pant suits, wool shift or trapeze dresses and coats in solids, accented with a sprinkling of white-and-black stripes and large leaf prints in autumnal red, orange-red, green, purple and a rich deep blue.
The female models, with fluffy curled hair and bright red lips, looked like they were ready to get on an airline flight to mix a little business with pleasure, while the men in plaid wool blazers could have been running off to a campus club meeting.
Trousers for both genders provided an updated look to the mod-style dresses and coats. Women's pantsuits in wool or satin matched lean, tailored blazers with full, wide legs but were cropped to capri length. Men's pants were slouchy, wide and decidedly longer than necessary.
A younger take on a woman's pantsuit worked the tone-on-tone trend by pairing a green-and-blue printed top with matching cigarette pants in a sturdy fabric, made professional with chunky green loafer-style pumps.
As has been the trend at fashion week so far, hems fell and necklines rose at Marc by Marc. Lean turtlenecks and printed sweaters were neatly tucked into high-waist belted A-line and pencil skirts that hit below the knee. Out of 50 total looks, just two dresses were minilength, including a short-sleeve one in blue wool satin that could easily double as a tunic.
The men evoked college dressing in turtlenecks, fleece hooded sweatshirts, patterned sweaters and plaid blazers.
For outerwear, shapes stayed simple as long overcoats or short and long trapeze styles in prints matching dresses and skirts. Two long shearling coats in shiny fur, one in a natural brown and the other dyed blue, were trim and prim — much like the rest of the surprisingly mature collection.