Milan designers nudge men to dress with derring-do

Published on NewsOK Modified: June 24, 2014 at 1:41 pm •  Published: June 24, 2014

MILAN (AP) — Milan designers are gently inviting men to add just a little derring-do to their dressing.

Feel secure in that double-breasted blazer? Why not snazz it up with a pair of silken shorts and thick-soled sneakers? Like the classic black and white, or red-white-and-blue combinations? Ok, but let's brighten things up sometimes with color — purple, aqua blue, salmon pink.

It was a big regroup during the four days of fashion previews for next summer's menswear that ended Tuesday.

Miuccia Prada warned it was not the time for craziness and Giorgio Armani discussed the need of fashion to be "serious" and not pull consumers' legs with outlandishly styled shirts that create a fashion media stir and cost 350 euros (nearly $500) a pop.

Designers seemed united in their desire to simplify things — returning to lines as a graphic form, adding stripes, gingham and checks to menswear but foregoing, for the most part, florals and ethnic prints.

The silhouette was relaxed and easy to wear, with jackets worn open and crew-necks or inventive tops favored over the traditional white or blue shirts. Trousers were roomy, pleated and often cuffed, but also straight and cropped. The preferred short was the Bermuda. Ties were replaced by foulards knotted snuggly on the neck or scarves tucked inside coats.

There was little denim — except on the Prada runway where there was almost nothing else. Distressed garments got a new life, as if to honor a man's self-conscious nature about dressing well.


Perhaps Giorgio Armani is growing reflective as he nears his 80th birthday in July.

He titled his menswear collection "Armani echoes," and created sober and classic looks with that twist of ingenuity which has won him a dedicated following in the last four decades — and which demonstrated that the collection was by no means a retrospective.

Armani presented completely updated versions of shirts, from cotton pullovers with shawl collars to a silky pajama-style top, and a jersey top with sloping shoulders that turn into gingham cotton shirt-sleeves. Pants were roomy, a bit short and cuffed, showing off sneakers and leather tie-up Oxfords.

Echoing the Emporio Armani collection, his main line incorporated stripes, checks, gingham and even polka dots. There was more color, always on the subdued side, from blue grays to power blues and dusty reds.

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