In Texas, we had baked beans at picnics and cookouts. At a barbecue, the beans were never sweet. Call them ranch-style or chili beans, I call these buckaroos. They come from the vaquero tradition, which also gives us the word buckaroo. This recipe takes two days, but it's worth it.
2 pounds dried pinto beans
1 to 2 pounds small pork roast
6 guajillo chiles, or other mild red chiles
6 chiles de arbol, or other spicy dried red chiles
6 cloves garlic, mashed into 3 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 white onion, diced
2 tablespoons cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon cumin
• Dump beans into a large mixing bowl. Cover with water at least two inches above beans. Let stand overnight.
• Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Fill a small saucepan two-thirds from the top with water and bring to a boil. Add chiles and diced onion. Simmer 10 minutes, then turn off heat and cover. Let steep another 10 minutes.
• In a food processor, add rehydrated chiles, onion, garlic paste and a half cup of water from the pot. Blend until smooth and set aside.