In the kitchen, chef Mike Fratrick, recently of Mahogany Prime Steakhouse, introduces his prime beef to a 1,400-degree baptism by fire to ensure a tight crust without comprising the flavor hidden within. Before delivery, steaks go through a minimum six-minute resting period to keep precious juices captive before knife meets beef.
On a recent visit, my wife, Lori, the herbivore, and I started with Barbecue Shrimp and an Opus Wedge, with a bone-in tenderloin, which is an off-the-menu item, not far behind. Lori's protein intake includes some occasional shellfish, so she opted for lobster tail. The shrimp had just the right amount of zip, and the tangy sauce it came with was a nice change of pace. The wedge had the requisite blue cheese, which was rich and bold.
My tenderloin was crusty on the outset but fragile in the center, flavor growing with every succeeding bite toward the bone. Lightly bathed in butter, the steak was pure decadence once joined in wedded bliss by a glass of Hess Collection Private Reserve cabernet sauvignon.
Tagging along were Potatoes Lyonnaise with Sauteed Onions and Lobster Macaroni and Cheese. The potatoes were creamy and flavor-rich, the proper squire for a steak so regal. The lobster-riddled mac and cheese beneath a crunchy crust had enough flavor and substance to stand alone as an entree.
While neither of us could conceive of adding dessert to the dance card, Bill Wilson insisted we finish with no less than fresh berries and cream. While we didn't finish, this simple dish provided our palates with a gentle landing back from outer space.
Opus gives Oklahoma City a hint of Chicago-style fine dining, which is a welcome component to the restaurant neighborhood. But don't feel like you have to wear your Sunday best.
“I want people who come to Opus to be comfortable,” Wilson said. “We wanted the place to be beautiful, but more importantly, we want it to be comfortable.”
For more about Opus Prime Steakhouse, 800 W Memorial Road, including reservation information, go online to www.opusprimesteakhouse.com or call 607-6787.