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Red Prime Steakhouse — good mix of old, new

Red is for Oklahoma. Red is for passion. But most important, red is for prime beef.
By Dave Cathey Modified: July 9, 2010 at 7:30 pm •  Published: March 25, 2010
Red is for Oklahoma. Red is for passion. But most important, red is for prime beef.

Red Prime Steak, the crown jewel of A Good Egg Dining Group, is parked in Automobile Alley's old Buick Building. It opened in 2007 with an interior designed by acclaimed local architect Rand Elliott and under the guidance of managing chef Keith Paul and executive chef Robert Black.

The classic exterior doesn't prepare you for the sleek, industrial interior dark and open, lighted by a ladder of horizontal red lights. It has the immediate feel of a techno bar.

There is nothing techno about the food, which begins with prime beef that's dry-aged 40 days.

Ian Clarke, sommelier and beverage manager, said Red's prime directive is making a positive, impact on Oklahoma culture, nudging it forward on the culinary landscape.

Now under the direction of chef Kyle Mills, the kitchen offers six choices of crust and seven choices of sauce, furthering the notion that this place wasn't conceived to simply fit in. Crusts include simple cracked black pepper, toasted coriander, guajillo chile, Maytag blue cheese, coffee and brown sugar and salt. Sauces are homemade Worcestershire, brandy mushroom, roasted poblano, bearnaise, house steak sauce, horseradish and black truffle butter.

Sides are an eclectic mix. Comfort food prepared inventively such as flash-fried baby spinach, with a rich buttery breath before it dissolves on the tongue, to basic bistro fries. In between are interesting interpretations of creamed corn, mashed potatoes, mac and cheese, broccoli and cheddar and spaghetti squash, to name a few.

The menu also includes a selection of seafood for those seeking lighter fare.

Chef Paul is a native of Fort Worth, Texas.

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