Rules of the Game

Whitney Bryen, OPUBCO Communications Group

Published: October 2, 2008

Chef Chad Willis shares advice for preparing, presenting and entertaining with wild game

When it comes to fall feasting, every cuisine in the world incorporates wild game in its offerings and autumn is the best time to explore its variety of rich and savory flavors.

Chef Chad Willis of The Metro Café and Wine Bar in Oklahoma City, won the Oswalt Culinary Cook-Off in 2007 based on his expertise with game. He shares a few of his secrets below.

DUCK SOUP SERVED IN ROASTED SQUASH

Willis says he particularly enjoys this dish because the soup is served in a roasted acorn squash.

The squash bowls make for a nice presentation, he said, while sprinkling some freshly cut herbs and toasted seeds on top just before serving provides color and texture The pheasant and duck provide a great pairing with a merlot or a pinot noir.

PASTRAMI-SPICE, SEARED DUCK BREAST

As Willis’s favorite, the pastrami spice seared duck breast.creates a unique flavor blend served with caramelized Cipollini onions and roasted potatoes.

“I just really love duck and it has such a great flavor,” said Willis.

With wild game, like any meat dish, the presentation of the food should emphasize the main component and make it the “star of the plate,” said Willis. Serving the food on a mirror or a bamboo plate is a good way to add some fun to your presentation. For less formal occasions, this dish also looks great on a skewer, he said.

Served either way, the meat and pastrami spice beg for a heavier Merlot or Pinot Noir, said Willis.

SMOKED AND BRAISED VENISON SHOULDER

“What’s great about this dish is you can carve it at the table like a turkey,” said Willis. Butternut squash, sweet potatoes or Brussels sprouts would complement the dish well, paired with a nice cabernet or zinfandel.

Venison also makes a great skewer when pieced between some veggies and tomatoes, he said.

Venison is a lean meat, much leaner than beef, but that means it is easy to dry out if you’re not careful, said Willis. One venison shoulder should serve approximately six to eight people at a dinner party or make about 70 skewers.

“It has an earthy flavor and looks similar to beef so this is not a really scary meat to try if you are a beginner,” he said.

The color of venison is very similar to beef so just use the same décor you would use when serving a beef dish, said Willis. The contrasting colors should be the same.

THINGS TO REMEMBER

Some general rules to remember when planning to serve wild game or any unusual dish is to try it first, said Willis.

“Go out to eat and try the meat before you serve it at a party and if you like it then just find a recipe online and give it a whirl,” said Willis.

Another thing to remember when serving wild game is that some meats are more difficult to prepare than others. Rabbit tastes great but it is very difficult to cook, said Willis.

Quail is a popular dish also but there are several bones to consider. Some stores sell quail that only contains the leg bone and the wing and that can make the preparation, presentation and consumption easier. Stuffing them with spinach or mushrooms or barbecuing are good ways to prepare quail.

Wild game often is served in conjunction with hunting seasons, said Willis. That is when the freshest meat is available and it seems to work well for people’s mind set to serve the meat when it is being hunted.

“Don’t be afraid to try something new,” said Willis. “Most people can find something they like if they just give it a chance.”

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