SKAGWAY, Alaska (AP) — It used to be that paying for sex was not that big of a deal. Right here, in Southeast Alaska.
Men wanted it, women needed money. Wham, bam, thank you Lottie, Hattie, Flo...and what was her name, the one with the black fishnet stockings? If you were a man in Skagway in 1898, you could pick a woman by looking up into the windows of the second story of a building on the corner of Broadway and 7th Avenue.
Over a century later, you can still look up into the second story of the same building. You can still pick a woman, but just in name. The Historic Skagway Inn - a bed and breakfast in what was once known as "Paradise Alley" of Skagway's Red Light District - rents their rooms under the names of the original girls who turned their tricks there: Alice, Birdie, Cleo, Flo, Dottie, Essie, Hattie, Grace, Kitty and Ida.
In researching the gold rush days for her book, "Sin and Grace, a Historical Novel of the Skagway, Alaska Sporting Wars," Catherine Holder Spude located hand-written receipts from the Inn's premises in state archives that had the actual women's names, verifying their authenticity.
The Inn is currently owned and operated by the husband and wife duo Karl and Rosemary Klupar. They have just started their 14th season, opening for the Buckwheat Ski Classic. They close after the last cruise ship leaves the city's docks.
"From what we gather, the city was moving the prostitutes further and further north until they were pushed out of town," Karl said. "This property was established as the Red Light district in 1902.
Karl said that it was the temperance movement that was effective in pushing the women out of town.
The inn has been through numerous transitions, developments and owners.
From what Karl has found through ownership records, a local man purchased the original building in 1908. His family operated the building as a boarding house for more than 40 years.
"After they retired, the next people that owned it turned it into the Skagway Inn, in the early 1950s," Karl said.
The building changed hands at least four more times before the Klupars bought it in February of 1998. For licensing purposes they changed the business name from The Skagway Inn to the Historic Skagway Inn.
The Klupars operate their business in a yin and yang fashion. Rosemary is spunky, vivacious and carefree.
"My family's motto is, 'Often wrong, but never in doubt,'" Rosemary said. "You just don't ever think that it's not going to happen. You just assume that everything will work out."
She is the creative force behind the retail stores the couple also operates, Lynch and Kennedy, and the more gregarious one, flighting around and eagerly sharing and soaking up exchanges with her guests.
"Karl is the systems guy," she said. "He's very operationally-oriented, and he's a pretty linear thinker. I bring the opposite. He's not as social, I'm more creative. You have to have two sides of the coin to make things work, or hire someone to be something you aren't. He's such a structured person and I'm so not."
Karl's background is in hotel administration, in which he holds a degree from Cornell University.
Rosemary's background is in art.
Her talents came in handy. The National Park Service renovated dilapidated historic buildings, and the Klupars put in a bid for the Lynch and Kennedy dry goods store. They won the bid in 1993.
They lived on the second story of the store while developing it into a now successful retail shop and starting their family.
After their retail store was up and running and they had purchased the Inn, they began two large renovations. They redesigned the layout of the building, swapping the location of a small retail store adjacent to the Inn with a small restaurant that had previously been developed, and also expanded the restaurant. The couple named it Olivia's, after their first child (of five). They also re-plumbed the building so some of the rooms had private bathrooms.
The second remodel removed the two guest rooms located on the ground floor and put a lobby into that space.
"Every building in Skagway has some kind of history," Karl said. "The contractor found two cards, an Ace and a Jack, behind the stud when they were taking down the oldest part of the Inn. The walls were stuffed with newspaper and horse hair."
The Klupars currently have around 12 staff members, including Karl's mom, and they developed the yard into a garden.
"It's a kitchen garden," Karl said. "A lot of herbs, edible flowers and vegetables. We have enough lettuce greens to make it work, enough mint for mojitos, enough flowers for garnishes and rosemary, thyme and chives."
They added apple trees, and began utilizing the four rhubarb plants already on the premises for desserts they serve at the restaurant.
Karl began a garden gourmet tour, marketed at cruise ship passengers. He buys fresh seafood and has the tour participants go out on a garden scavenger hunt for items he prepares in a live demonstration.
The couple work hard. Really hard. They deal with accounting, tend to the garden, feed their guests and customers and direct their staff. They're part of a city tour highlighting the spicier places from its - quite literally - golden age.
"People think that a (bed and breakfast) owner is standing around holding a cup of coffee," Rosemary said. "Bed and breakfasts are not for the faint of heart."
One thing that Karl and Rosemary both find rewarding is the interaction with their clientele.
"You get to meet a lot of really fun people," Rosemary said. "We've had people that have hiked the Chilkoot trail five or six times that stay with us. Twenty-five percent of our business is repeat business. Of that, about 20 percent are Alaskan or Yukon (residents)."
"Staying at a historic place is more fun," he said. "If you're going to go backpacking in Yosemite you can stay at the Holiday Inn, but if you're into the history and (like to) imagine what things were like during the gold rush, it's nice to stay at a place that has the same history; it makes their trip more fun."
Every day is different, Karl said.
"I love that my day is so diverse," Rosemary said. "When you own a small business you do everything. I like the challenge. You have to do your marketing, write your business plans, your budgets, accounting, displays, hiring, product development. It's very interesting. You get your finger in every single pot."