Brows are big right now. Literally. Full, defined, luscious brows are the rage among the beauty elite.
If your brows are less than lush, the news is good. With proper techniques, you can get thicker-looking brows, maybe even within one visit to an eyebrow expert.
“There is a lot of focus on brows right now,” said Nicole Willis, owner of The iBrow Studio, 1015 Waterwood Parkway in Edmond.
Willis specializes in custom eyebrow design, for which she analyzes her clients' face shape, eye shape and the condition of their brows. Her brow services include styling, tinting, trimming, tweezing and waxing.
“A fuller brow frames the eyes and makes the eyes pop,” agreed Lilly Stone, makeup artist and owner of Sooo Lilly Exclusive Cosmetics. Stone offers her line of cosmetics and services at Kokopelli in The Shoppes at Northpark.
“Think of the brows as your picture frame and the eye as the picture,” Stone said.
Frames for the windows to the soul
Willis enjoys tailoring the brows to a client's personality.
“Some people feel a little shy and want to look more confident, so we can change their brow to reflect a more confident appearance,” she said. Or, she can take a strong, dominant-looking face and soften it up with a tweeze here, a light tint, a touch of gentle soy-based wax product.
“But I've over-tweezed my brows,” you may be thinking. Or, maybe you naturally have very sparse, thin, light brows that barely show.
Willis has a solution. She starts by tinting all the hair you have in the brow area, peach fuzz and all, into a brow-like block. Then, she shapes and styles the new brow to complement the client's face. It's as easy as that — for a professional. Don't try this technique at home.
Tools of the trade
After you've visited a professional for a brow styling, you can keep them maintained between visits with some basic tools.
“A brow pencil, brow powder, brow gel, clear or tinted,” Willis said.
When using a brow pencil, apply opposite the hair growth, giving the pencil some resistance against the hair, creating hairlike markings. Pencil is good for those with normal to dry skin. It could rub off of oily skin unless you buy a waterproof brow pencil.
When applying powder, use a thin, angled brow brush applicator. MAC has a great one, Willis said.
Apply powder in the direction of the hair growth. Use a brow gel over the pencil or powder to hold the shape of the brow and to add shine (when using clear gel) and dimension (when using colored gel).
Some people's brows grow downward, so brush and gel them with the grain. Styling can be more tricky for people whose eyebrows grow downward, so a professional might be your best bet.
If all else fails, a permanent cosmetic method called brow tapping can create the look of brows. Willis recommends brow tapping artist Phylis Milner. She said Milner uses a SofTap manual method of micropigmentation in which she creates a natural look of brushed brows through a tattooing-like process. (For appointments, call 833-4402.)
Here are tips and tricks for beautiful brows from some of our favorite local makeup artists.
Lilly Stone, Sooo Lilly Exclusive Cosmetics, 12100 N May, 748-5200 or 306-2060.
If you have a straight brow, you don't want to create an arch because it will thin your brows too much. Enhance what you've got.
If you do have an arch, accentuate where your arch is and don't try to move it, because you could distort your features.
If your brows are long, trim them before you tweeze, or you could end up with bare spots.
Always get a professional to shape your brow and create your line. Then you can follow up and tweeze the excess between visits.
As you age, your brows lose definition, so fill them in with a brow liner or powder for an instant facelift.
Sharon Tabb, The Makeup Room Agency, 595-6680.
I love Sonia Kushak's brow gel palette with four shades in it from Target. Even a red tone for redheads!
Waterproof gel brow.
Taupe and medium brown are best! They also have a great pencil if you prefer pencil application.
Urban Decay also has a great brow palette. It comes with two powders, wax, brush and small tweezers.
I suggest lightly filling in the brows with a slightly lighter subtle shade than your hair color as brows can look harsh very easily with too dark of a shade.
Never use black, even if you dark or black hair.
Alex Mendez-Kelley, The Makeup Bar, 7646 N Western Ave., 810-1226
First thing is first, be realistic as to what your eyebrows will and will not do. Don't think yesterday's fads will accommodate tomorrow's new trends.
Stick to your eye shape, hair growth and best shape for your bone structure.
Use a mascara spoolie or a soft toothbrush to brush your eyebrows. My favorite eyebrow pencil is from Brenda Christian. It is a universal color. Literally anyone can use it. My favorite eyebrow gels right now are from Serenity+Scott. They have the slightest amount of shimmer. They come in amazing colors and never feel “crunchy.” Of course, the best advice I can give as far as eyebrows go is find the best brow stylist and stick to them like superglue!