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Theyskens Theory presents a romantic urban vision

Associated Press Modified: September 11, 2012 at 5:51 pm •  Published: September 11, 2012

NEW YORK (AP) — The Theyskens Theory line marries edgy-style darling Olivier Theyskens with accessible Theory, but the new spring collection at New York Fashion Week presented a singular vision. It was an all-day wardrobe for the cool urbanite who might be a little more romantic than she thought.

She likes strong shoulders, even when she's wearing a knit T-shirt dress. She also wears a lot of cropped pleated pants, often leather ones, with high waistbands, and cropped jackets.

When she wears a coat, it's long like a duster.

While Monday's preview was for spring, the mostly dark palette suited the hideaway venue in an unused part of a midtown post office. Theyskens, however, did embrace some strikingly light shades of denim.

Of course, there's a night life for Theyskens' muse, and she doesn't shy away from metallic fabrics or beadings, and that's when she pulls out a little color: a starburst halter gown in ice blue.