PARIS (AP) — When fashion editors put down their pens halfway through a catwalk show, it's always cause for worry.
This was the case at Hedi Slimane's disappointing debut at Yves Saint Laurent — a rather confused ode to excess that used fringing, leather, lacing, tassels, feathers, sequins, skinny menswear tailoring, baggy pants, cinching cummerbunds, capes, tribal pendants and almost everything else under the sun.
That's not to mention an oversized black and white coat that could have been worn by Cruella de Ville.
Pierre Berge, Saint Laurent's former partner, speaking ahead of the show said: "(Slimane) knows the Saint Laurent DNA, the spirit."
There was definitely a nod to that. For example, black silk neckbows, a house signature that was used as a leitmotif. But the collection lacked the empowering sex appeal that made Saint Laurent one of the most famous names in fashion.
The bows, rather symbolically, instead of unifying the collection, fought with other busy materials for attention.
Unflattering floppy Stetson hats capped it off, sometimes blocking out the models' faces.
The pressure on the former Dior Homme designer Slimane — who was appointed in March — has probably been huge.
International media have pitted Slimane in a battle of designers against Christian Dior's new man, Raf Simons, who was appointed a month later.