MOORE — The big pig has finally grown up.
The smiling Hollie's Drive-In swine wore his pinstriped overalls over a south Oklahoma City burger joint from 1947 to 1981. By the end of the '80s, he opened the door to a retro nightclub and held it until 2003.
Now, with help from the Hal Smith Group, he's living high on the hog in the shadow of the Warren Theatres at Hollie's Flatiron Steakhouse, 1199 S Interstate 35 Service Road.
“Hal Smith and Bill Warren were looking to put a premium concept in front of the theater,” said managing partner Ross Crain. “Hal said he thought the Hollie's name still carried some weight.”
As it happened, Smith boasts Jerry Hilterbrand as a partner in some of the group's Louie's concepts. Hilterbrand owned the rights to the Hollie's name since opening the aforementioned nightclub, which was on S Western Avenue.
Through two sets of doors in a small waiting area, you'll find the prodigious porker hanging out on an adobe wall.
Adobe? That's right, this grown-up version of Hollie's oozes Southwest, with rounded archways and a menu tinged with fresh Hatch chiles to support a solid selection of steaks and chops.
“We're right next to the Warren Theatre,” said Crain, who also oversees the Toby Keith's concepts. “So our idea was to cater to folks who might be on a dinner-and-a-movie date.”
Build for speed
The menu and dining room are built for speed. There's only one group of tables set up to be combined for large groups; the rest of the floor is set up with high-walled booths that offer a more intimate dining experience.
“With the menu, we really try to emphasize speed.”
The menu's centerpiece is steak, starting with a 6-ounce sirloin and running the gamut of size and cut to a bone-in rib-eye plus smoked prime rib. Steaks range from $16 to $32.
But the Hollie's name was founded on burgers, and the fact isn't lost on this new incarnation.
In its heyday, Hollie's was the gathering hub for post-World War II youths with gas to burn, an itch to mix and a burger hankering. Original owner Ed Hollie introduced the bacon burger his drive-in would become known for in 1951.
So, it's fitting the first burger on the new menu is the Bacon Chipotle Barbecue Burger. You'll also find burgers in Black N Bleu, Green Chile Cheese and American cheese.
“We wanted to put a simple menu together that we could emphasize Southwest flavors and perfect execution,” said David Callaway, senior kitchen manager.
The menu also offers sandwiches topped with prime rib, chicken and even catfish. Racks of ribs are available as are roasted chicken, and pork chops.
Pre-entree choices include Hatch chiles stuffed with cheese, chipotle wings, tamales, deviled eggs tinged with habanero, nachos and a fistful of churched-up salads.
From the bar
Hollie's sports a horseshoe-shaped bar made of walnut. You'll find upward of 30 wines on the list, in red and white, with prices from $23 to $79 and many options by the glass.
“Our real specialty is tequila,” Crain said.
The bar offers premium tequilas and cocktails that emphasize them.
The concept also marks a graduation of sorts for the Moore dining scene. Recent development along Interstate 35 south of downtown has drawn an influx of fast-food concepts. Hollie's adds a much-needed full-service restaurant capable of delivering some elements of fine dining while maintaining a family dining atmosphere.
For a video about Hollie's Flatiron Steakhouse, scan the QR code or go to NewsOK.com.